Keep in mind some jumper wires were factory fixes so they may be standard for some games. There may also be jumper wires to fix broken traces. Are there any noticeable signs of previous repair? These may include actual stickers with repair dates or solder work. Other boards may have other sized batteries so be sure to check them as well. Check if there is battery acid around the holders and if so, if it has spread to other components. Some PBCs, like Punch-Out!! and Williams games like Joust have battery holders on them.

Is corrosion visible anywhere on the PCB, such as traces or around components? How worn is the edge connector? Is it burnt up, are there signs of edge connector repairs, such as solder? Evaluating Arcade PCB Conditionīesides the obvious 'doesn't it work or not?' question, here are additional points to consider when buying an arcade pcb. Worst case scenario you will have parts to keep another board going, or you may be able to repair it yourself. When looking for a specific arcade PCB, it’s not a bad strategy to have a backup for parts, so if you first see an untested board going for a steep discount you might consider picking it up first in the event it actually does fire up. I have sold non-JAMMA PCBs that I simply didn’t have a harness to connect to and these PCBs did in fact work when the buyer plugged them in. Games that are non-JAMMA and are listed as “untested” realistically have a higher chance that they truly are untested. Rather than list a game as “non-working”, some sellers may list them as “untested” to encourage a higher selling price. Since the JAMMA standard is so common, it is very easy for a seller to test JAMMA boards for working condition. Please assume these are not working and will need some type of repair, especially if these are JAMMA PCB boards. You may see arcade PCBs for sale listed as “untested”.

A “parts board”, which may be missing chips and daughter cards may go for 15-30% of a working arcade PCB price. In general, I would say a more common, non-working board goes for around 30-40% of a working arcade PCB price. Less common titles, such as Major Havoc, may sell for even $800+ when not working or “untested” simply because they can be challenging to acquire regardless of working condition. Many common titles, such as Pac-Man that are complete, but in non-working condition or “untested” may sell for $35-$65. Non working and incomplete arcade PCBs sell for considerable less than their working counter parts. The prices below do not factor in shipping. As with many potential collectibles, prices can vary greatly and can swing like they do in other markets. There are certainly reasonable deals to be found on eBay, and many fair sellers. When Buying or Selling Arcade PCBs on eBayĪrcade PCBs may often run 15-35% more on eBay (compared to collector forums and between collectors) as sellers on eBay are often trying to cover selling fees as well as drive up prices and/or are patiently waiting to net a customer willing to pay a premium. Personally, I do not focus on buying and selling arcade games and parts for profit and tend to seek out games based on what I enjoy playing.

The coin-operated hobby or business, or both, depending on your position, has widely ranging prices due to the fact that some see arcade cabinets as large, bulky boxes they simply want to get rid of, while others highly value and appreciate their worth for either profit, entertainment or nostalgic reasons. Naturally, opinions will vary so it is always suggested to do your due diligence when buying or selling. These prices are largely gathered from sales and listings on arcade collector forums and from in-person transactions. The arcade PCB price guide below reflects the price of complete, tested and working arcade PCB game boards based on my experiences and what I have seen in the market place. *** Click to jump below to the arcade PCB price guide *** - Updated

Bosconian arcade cabinet